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Click an image to enlarge. |
The reason I chose the Forester over the WRX wagon is that I prefer the look and larger cargo space of the Forester, as well as the less conspicuous "sleeper" look. However, I don't really like the SUVish ride height and body roll and the general consensus is that the suspension isn't up to par with the performance of the car (at least the XT turbo).
Supposedly this can be done in 2-3 hours, but since it was my first time, it took me 4 hours. This is just a take-off DIY so it does not include things like changing the springs or anything like that.
Tools you will need:
19mm deep socket
19 mm socket or open/crescent wrench
Socket wrench/ratchet
Breaker Bar (18" or larger recommended)
Torque Wrench
12mm deep socket
Penetrating Oil (e.g. WD40)
Screwdriver or something else to let you tap
out a metal clip.
Special thanks to Peaty's DIY on Scoobymods which I used as a guide for this one. |
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The Forester is based on the Impreza platform and has so many similarties that most of the parts are interchangeable. With the turbo, the Forester is essentially a tall WRX wagon that's been raised up.
Take a look at the wheel gap on the stock car. |
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So I decided to replace the struts (shocks and springs) with WRX takeoff struts (struts that have literally been taken off of a WRX, no modifications).
Here is a picture of the stock ride height in the front. |
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You can use STi (2004 only) or any WRX or Impreza parts, though there are pretty big differences between model lines and there are some minor changes from year to year so make sure you've done your research before choosing the parts you want.
Supposedly the shocks in 2005+ WRXs have better valving, though that may be more subjective. Of course, newer is generally better (used less) so when I found these 2005s for $150, I snatched them up.
Here is the ride height in front after the installation. In front, it's about a 2" drop, cutting wheel gap to about 3 fingers. |
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Do note that the rear springs for a WRX wagon are 1/2" taller than a WRX sedan so if you are very particular about keeping your wheel gap even, you may want to wait for wagon springs. I didn't mind so I picked up sedan springs which results in a 1/2" extra drop in the rear.
Sorry, I forgot to take before pictures for the rear, but here is what it looks like afterwards. It's about a 2.5" drop, cutting wheel gap to about 2 fingers. |
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| Here's a picture of the dropped car from the back.I think it looks better. |
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Here's a picture of the dropped car from the front.
The ride is just as comfortable as stock but it doesn't roll nearly as much and doesn't dive and squat when braking and accelerating. It makes me much more confident in the stability of the car and calms that little voice in my head that whispers "roll-over" in my ear... |
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It figures that on my last corner of the car... I screwed something up. I think my torque wrench may have failed causing me to over-tighten a nut and strip my front left camber bolt. As a result, I could not get the nut off.
To remove the nut, I purchased a Craftsman Nut Cracker. It didn't quite work b/c the nut is flared on one end, so the nut cracker couldn't cut that part. However, it did pinch the nut and give it a little more traction on the threads so I managed to back it off afterwards.
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Here's a close up of the nut. As you can see, there are basically no more threads left.
BTW, in case you ever need a replacement, the nut has M14x1.5 threading.
I did NOT find that size at Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace or AutoZone (auto zone only had lug nuts). I DID find the right size at TrueValue, but alas the camber bolt was too damaged to reuse. |
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| Here's a close up of the camber bolt. The threads are highly damaged and as a result is no longer usable, even with a new nut. |
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| Introduction | Front Struts | Rear Struts |
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