ERROR
IN DIY - Please read this before reading this DIY and be aware of
the errors.
As I was testing out my CD player, I had a funny suspicion that it
wasn't turning off when I turned off the car. A week later, I got
in my car, turned the key and... nothing. Not a peep, not a click...
nothing. My clock didn't work, nor did my ceiling light! My CD player
had played all week until my car was completely dead! My error was
assuming that all the systems used the same color coding for wires.
This is incorrect. When dealing with electrical wiring, always double
check your color codes and make sure you are hooking up the correct
wires.
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click for a larger image |
| Since I can barely hear my stereo when
my windows are open, I decided to buy a subwoofer so I could relieve
my stock speakers of some of the bass load. Here's a picture of the
Pyle Toobz self-amplified, 8" 200 watt subwoofer tube I got for
$50 on ebay. Note that this wasn't any better than the stock 6x9s
in the rear, so I ended up getting a pair
of 12" subwoofers instead later on. |
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I already have a CD-Changer in my trunk,
but since I never did a DIY for it, I'll include some of that information
here.
First we must take apart the car. Let's start with the center console
where the stereo (head unit) is. To remove the console, undo the two
screws underneath the center panel. |
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There is a third screw holding the console but this
is hidden behind the clock, so we must take the clock out.
If you look carefully at the sides of the clock, you'll see a crack
where the clock fits against the center console. Run your fingernails
or a flat-head screwdriver into the crack and pry it out.. It should
pop a little when it has freed from the clips behind it. |
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Pull out the clock but not too hard as
there are two wire harnesses connected to the back.
One harness leads to the clock and the other to the hazard light/blinker
switch. Please note that while you can drive with your console taken
apart, the hazard switch must be plugged in for your turn signals
to work so if you need to drive somewhere half way through the install,
make sure to plug this back in.
Each wire harness has a little tab on one side. Push this in and remove
the harnesses. Now you can remove the third screw that secures the
console panel. |
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Hold the top of the console panel above the air vents
and pull and it should come out. You should feel the clips inside
pop out. Do the same thing at the bottom of the console where you
took out the two screws. You'll feel more clips pop out.
Now you can pull out the entire console. Don't pull too far as it
has 2 wire harnesses, one for the fan speed control and one for the
rest of the HVAC control panel. Remove the harness for the HVAC control
panel. If you want, you can remove the fan speed harness as well for
additional working room. You can open the glove compartment and temporarily
store the console there. |
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There are a total of 5 clips that help
secure the console. Pictured here are three at the bottom. There are
two more at the top on either side of the top screw.
Check that these clips are still on the console panel, not in the
frame of the car. If you leave them on the frame, there is a good
chance you'll brush them and knock them into the abyss behind your
head unit and never find them again (I lost 2 screws and 2 clips down
that abyss...). Also, if you try to replace the console with the clips
in the support frame, they will only get knocked into the abyss. Make
sure to take them off and put them back onto the console panel in
the appropriate places. |
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Remove the 4 screws holding the head unit
to the support frame. Here you can see where two of the screws are.
There are two more on the right side as well. Be careful taking these
screws out as they are easy to drop into the abyss.
Once the screws are removed, gently pull out the head unit. It is
attached with one harness and the antenna cable. Remove the harness
and antenna cable.
If you have an OEM add-on CD player, that will take place of the storage
bin under the head unit and should come out together with the head
unit. The two will be connected by an additional harness. |
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Underneath the console is a storage bin and an additional
panel. You may wish to remove this panel to give you more working
space or if you are planning to run any wires there. I wired my CD
changer's remote control under it.
To remove it, simply clean out your bin and reach under the panel.
You should be able to get a couple fingers under it and pull it loose.
There are 4 clips holding this on. If you have trouble or smash your
fingers or something, you can also push it out from the back. |
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Finally, the whole center console has
been removed! Here's what it will look like. You can see the two air
vents at the top and the clock, hazard and HVAC harnesses. At the
bottom you can see the harness for the radio (removed) and the antenna
cable (not yet removed).
Now we're ready to start putting all the new stuff in! |
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| Preparation | Installation |
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